Swarovski Crystal Flower Hair Scrunchies, Ponytail assorted colors as shown 3 pieces in a pack Fabric Hair Scrunchie accented with Austrian Crustal, Hair Scrunchy accented by clear crystal, Light shades to create the perfect atmosphere Choosing the perfect light shade for your room is an important decision. Apart from just looking good, it also has to filter the light in the right way, and match the mood of the room. Try our traditional textile covered shades like JÄRA or RENATE, for a relaxed atmosphere. Light shades in coordinating sets Many of our light shades come in coordinating sets, so you can get creative and modern in the way you style your home. Some come in different colored versions of the same design, and include shades in different shapes or sizes. When it comes to ceiling light shades, handmade styles like the semi-transparent REGOLIT are great for children’s rooms. Put simply, we have a gorgeous and affordable light shade to suit every lamp in every room in your home.

May 1, 2012 by Robin Plaskoff Horton Here’s a great way to extend and blend the boundaries between indoors and out. For a designer show house where we helped convert a potting shed into a Creative Garden Retreat, we upcycled ordinary terra cotta garden pots into pendant lamps. It was easy: We reclaimed a few used pots, turned them upside down, added a ceiling cord set, and hung them as ceiling pendant lamps to bring a bit of garden to the indoor room! • Terracotta Garden Pots • Ceiling Cord Set (from IKEA or Home Depot) or for a more refined look, a cloth cord set Home Depot Cord Set Hemma cord set from IKEA. Cloth swag cord from Shandell’s • Toggle-bolt hooks to hang the lamp Note: You will likely need to enlarge the drainage hole on the bottom of the pot to accommodate the cord socket. 1. Soak the bottom of a terracotta pot in water for one hour to soften the clay for drilling. 2. Enlarge the hole with a conical rasp bit (or Dremel 562 tile cutting bit) or file.

3. Place the cord socket through the hole of the pot. –Gently squeeze metal ears on socket and insert socket into hole. –Release pressure on ears. –Install light bulb (75 watt maximum) 4. If you want a bit of extra hold, add a bead of sealant around the circumference of the pot opening where it meets cord socket. 5. Hang the Lamp Hang the pendants using strong ceiling hooks and then run the cord as inconspicuously as possible (across ceiling and down corner of wall) to the nearest outlet. 6. Optional: Hide the Power Cord You can place some inexpensive narrow molding over the cord, then paint it to match your wall. Alternatively, you can wrap the cord in something to make it a decorative element—like one of those scrunchy chandelier cord covers, or try wrapping the cord in jute or another type of decorative string. (If you use a cloth cord set, you can select a color that works as an accent.) Category: Creating, Lighting, Reclaimed & Recycled

Subscribe to Urban Gardens!e-mail a friend | Today marks HonestlyWTF’s four year anniversary. chandelier club darboyTo celebrate, we’re revisiting the very first tutorial we ever featured on the site: shibori tie dye. chandelier mumtazLauren and I first discovered shibori after discovering an old photo on the web. chandeliers ponsonbyThe idea of recreating an ancient Japanese dyeing technique inspired us to spend an entire weekend experimenting with our favorite deep blue, indigo. After dyeing just about every white article of clothing in sight, our blue stained fingers excitedly uploaded the tutorial – we couldn’t wait to share it with our 30 readers. And so began the ongoing series of tutorials and DIYs. We hope you enjoy the throwback, one of our favorites to date!

When choosing fabric or clothing, it’s important that made of natural fibers. Cotton, wool, silk or linen work best. I also like to pre-wash my fabric before dyeing. Here I’m using rectangular dinner napkins but obviously, any shape or article of clothing will do! Here are just a few basic binding techniques to try: Itajime shibori is known as the shape-resist technique. To start, fold the fabric like an accordion. Fold it again in the other direction – again, like an accordion. Place it between two pieces of wood, or any flat shaped object, and bind it together with string or rubber bands. The shapes and rubber bands will prevent the dye from penetrating the fabric they cover. The larger the shape and the more rubber bands you use, the more white you will see. The smaller the shape and fewer rubber bands you use, the more indigo you will see. Arashi is the Japanese term for “storm” and it’s also known as the pole-wrapping technique. It starts by wrapping fabric around a plastic PVC pipe at a diagonal.

Once the fabric is wrapped, tie a piece of twine into a double knot at the base of the pipe. Wrap the twine around the fabric. After 6-7 wraps around the pipe, scrunch the fabric down. Give the twine a strong tug to tighten. Tightening before scrunching will make it more difficult to control and move the fabric. Continue wrapping, scrunching and tightening until all the fabric is compacted. Tie a knot above the fabric. The pattern will be on a diagonal with thin lines of white, where the twine is binding the fabric. Kumo shibori is known as the pleat and bind technique. It involves binding the fabric in very close sections, which results in several spider like designs. This is just one of many ways to experiment with this technique. Start by folding the fabric into an accordion. Pinch and bind into equal sections. Do the same with the opposite side, in staggered sections. Continue binding with rubber bands, working your way towards the center. Keep binding until you can’t go any further.

Add additional rubber bands to make the fabric into a tight bundle. Be resourceful when binding – use clamps, paper clips, binder clips, odd shaped wooden pieces, canning jar lids, etc. There is no right or wrong way to shibori! To set up the indigo dye vat, follow the accompanying dye kit instructions. For this particular kit, start by filling a 5 gallon bucket with 4 gallons of warm water. Pour the indigo dye powder into the bucket and stir in a circular motion. Then pour in the soda ash and reduction agent. Stir again in a circular motion and then in reverse. It is important not to oxidize the dye bath so keeping it covered and stirring it gently is recommended. Once the dyed is well mixed, cover for at least an hour. When you check on the dye, you’ll notice a foamy oil-slick looking top layer and a neon yellow-greenish colored liquid below. This is when you know the dye is ready. Rinse the fabric in another bucket of clean water. Squeeze out all the water before submerging it into the indigo dye bath.

Gently manipulate and massage the dye into the fabric. Again, try not to agitate the dye by working gently under the surface of the dye. After about 5 minutes, take the fabric out of the dye. It will have a green hue but after several minutes, as it is exposed to oxygen, it will turn dark blue. Carefully peek inside one of your pieces and you’ll see the areas in which the dye wasn’t able to penetrate. After all the pieces have been dyed and allowed to oxidize, go ahead and repeat the dying process. The more it goes into the dye bath, the darker the indigo hue the fabric will be. And remember, the fabric will always look darker when wet and will fade a bit when washed for the first time. After dyeing, allow the pieces to dry and set. I like to leave them overnight before unwrapping the pieces. Put on a fresh pair of gloves, grab a pair of scissors and keep that bucket of clean water nearby. Give the bound pieces a good rinse in water and then carefully snip away the rubber bands and twine.